
| Location | Boise, Idaho |
| Type | Urban |
| Distance | 13 miles |
| Duration | 2 days/1 night |
| Difficulty | easy |
| Highlights | ood, lodging, Legacy Trail, architecture, flowers |
I’d guess most people wouldn’t think of Boise, Idaho as a “green” town; yet it’s known as the City of Trees. This has always amused the heck out of this East Coast girl. Trees? Well, sure, I thought: There are a few that have been trucked in over the years.
At least, that’s how I considered the matter before spending two days walking the town. Though Boise is Idaho’s capital, and its largest city, getting around its downtown core is more like strolling a small town. Each neighborhood brings its own delights. And surprise – who knew there were so many flowering trees?
I’d guess most people wouldn’t think of Boise, Idaho as a “green” town; yet it’s known as the City of Trees. This has always amused the heck out of this East Coast girl. Trees? Well, sure, I thought: There are a few that have been trucked in over the years.
At least, that’s how I considered the matter before spending two days walking the town. Though Boise is Idaho’s capital, and its largest city, getting around its downtown core is more like strolling a small town. Each neighborhood brings its own delights. And surprise – who knew there were so many flowering trees?
On day one, my husband and I parked our car where we’d be staying later that night (www.themodernhotel.com) and set out on foot toward the Idaho State Capitol, which has just undergone a huge renovation, about eight blocks away. I was wearing my new Sketcher Shape-ups, a much cheaper version of the MBT rolling sneaks. Husband was finally convinced to wear hiking-type footwear with some support versus his usual flip-flops. The boy can’t help it. He grew up in California.
On the way we stopped into The Record Exchange, an iconic store full of funny tchotchkes as well as CDs and albums, a coffee bar and old-fashioned booths.
For a Saturday morning, the downtown was surprisingly quiet. The air was chilly, but spring blooming shrubs and trees –azaleas, magnolias and dogwoods, scented the air and birdsong supplied the chatter.
The capitol was started in 1905 when the streets were still dirt and mud and now it’s heated by geothermal water, pumped from a source 3,000 feet underground. We did a quick look-see where husband surprised me by climbing all flights to the top of the building so we could get an excellent view.
I needed to pick up a few things for a friend’s new home so we stopped into the Boise Co-op, a great mostly organic store where all the world of Boise meets and shops. I got her some bread, wine and salt, and found some great-looking meat pies but decided to wait – we were headed to lunch in Hyde Park, the heart of the North End neighborhood. We met friends at the Parilla Grill, which makes great burritos of all kinds. The Jambalaya called out to me, and pretty soon, I had a satisfyingly dribble of spicy Cajun sauce all over my chin.
After delivering the gifts to my friend at her new house, we turned south toward downtown, crossing the old Oregon Trail at one point. Husband who lived in Boise for about four years as a kid remembers it as a dirt path that eventually has given way to a park. (He’s that old).
When we walk we often discuss architecture. This time I house shopped even picking up a few flyers from my favorites. A gal can dream, after all. By dinnertime, we’d covered 7.1 miles around Boise, and I felt primed and ready for more walking. Walking to drinks, anyway (www.myspace.com/pengillys) and dinner (www.sweetwaterstropiczone.com) and another day tomorrow.
The Modern Hotel is a renovated Travel Lodge. The owners chose streamlined look, and splurged on the linens and mattresses. The venue has become a real hotspot in Boise, with a sterling bar scene, art happenings, excellent light food, and an award-winning green design. (Can you tell I’m a regular?).
The next morning I awoke with aches. Not my legs or feet but head. It was my birthday, after all. Though husband forgot for several (crucial) moments, all was forgiven over a hearty breakfast at Big City Coffee (www.bigcitycoffeeld.com). We worked the calories off on a jaunt on the Greenbelt, a bike/walking path that runs alongside the Boise River. Ann Morrison Park was full of soccer and softball, kids having a catch, old people on benches and hippies with Frisbees.
Our destination was the 85-year old Boise Depot. Trains fascinate westerners, mostly because they didn’t grow up with them. This Depot is a beauty but it looks a lot many other depots on the east coast. Once the sight of energy and transport, the Boise Depot is now just a quiet, empty space, graced by good architecture and the best view of the city and the snow-capped mountains beyond.
The Boise Art Museum (www.boiseartmuseum.org) sits on the edge of Julia Davis Park (all the parks in Boise are named for wives of town honchos). There were two exhibitions we were interested in: Robots: Evolution of a Cultural Icon and VOGEL 50x50; The Dorothy and Herbert Vogel Collection: Fifty Works for Fifty States.
One piece in particular stood out – the small diorama of a weeping robot watching an old television on which played the 1927 futuristic German movie Metropolis.
The Basque block is easily walked to from Julia Davis Park and is the heart of Boise.
Here you’ll find two Basque restaurants, the Basque Museum and Cultural Center and the Basque Market. In the middle of the block is the Cyrus Jacobs House, built in 1864. Notable historical trivia: The Jacobs house boasts the first indoor bathtub in Boise and was wedding site of Idaho's famous Senator William Borah. It was first rented by Basques as a boarding house from 1910 until 1969. Lest you think these are minor details, let me assure you that Idaho has one of the largest Basque populations outside of Spain. The recently held Basque Exhibit on Ellis Island In New York City was largely curated by Boise’s Basque Museum.
After a late lunch with wine at Grape Escape on lively 8th Street, we finished up the day’s 6.9-mile walk back at the Modern. Since we’d already checked out, we had to use the lobby loos before making the two-hour drive home. Here’s the kicker. Small record players and an array of 45s await those who plan on setting a spell. Love it.
Plan
Boise Convention and Visitors Bureau: www.boise.org
Visit Idaho: www.visitidaho.org
Trails around Boise
Oregon Trail, an American Legacy Trail
Boise Art Museum: www.boiseartmuseum.org
Basque Museum: www.basquemuseum.com
Parilla Grill has bueno burritos of all sorts.
Pengilly’s for drinks: www.myspace.com/pengillys
Sweetwater’s Tropic Zone for dinner: www.sweetwaterstropiczone.com
Big City Coffee: www.bigcitycoffeeld.com
The Modern Hotel: All that’s old is new again. And great lobby loos. www.themodernhotel.com
Dana DuGan, who most identifies with the song, “Walking After Midnight”, grew up walking everywhere, and thinks that walking is the only really good way to get an idea of a place. Look for her often on WeekendWalk.com. Her blog: www.chickwithaview.com